Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

  • Baking

ByAdam Kuban

Updated May 08, 2020

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Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (1)

This is my go-to recipe for homemade bagels. It's adapted from Bernard Clayton's Complete Book of Breads. Clayton, in turn, got the recipe from the folks at the now-defunct Jo Goldenberg's, the famous Jewish restaurant and delicatessen in Le Marais, the historical Jewish quarter of Paris.

These bagels take about thee hours from start to finish, a large chunk of that time being the hourlong rise and the 30 or so minutes in the oven. Make these for a brunch party, tell your guests they came from your oven, and watch their socks get knocked off. There's something about homemade bagels that really impresses people.

How to Make Bagels at Home

Recipe Details

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe

Active60 mins

Total3 hrs

Serves10 bagels

Ingredients

  • 19.25 ounces bread flour (3 1/2 cups; 530g)

  • 1/4 ounceinstant dry yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons; 1 envelope active dry; 7g)

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • 12 ounces hot water(1 1/2 cups; 340g; 120°–130°F)

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons malt syrup (for the boiling water; alternatively, you can use 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar)

  • 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water (optional, for toppings)

Directions

  1. Add all the dry ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until mixed, about 5 seconds. With processor running, slowly add the water; process until dough comes together and rides up over the blade, about 30 seconds. Continue processing until dough becomes satiny and elastic, about 30 seconds more.

  2. Transfer dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

  3. After dough has risen but before you divide and shape it, prepare your water bath: Add the malt syrup to 6 quarts of water over high heat and let it come to a boil as you continue with the following steps.

    Also: Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (3)

  4. After dough has doubled in bulk, turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and press down with your fingers to expel the gases. Divide dough into 10 equal portions.

  5. Ball a portion of dough, then roll it into a "rope" about 7 inches long and about 1 inch thick. (Tip: I like to taper the ends slightly in preparation for the next step.)

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (4)

  6. Wrap the dough around the back of your hand, overlapping the ends in your palm. Place your hand, along with the dough, palm-down on the work surface and roll dough back and forth until ends crimp and seal together. Place dough ring under a span of plastic wrap while you repeat rope-and-loop process with remaining dough portions.

    Tip: You can brush a little water on the ends to help them stick, but this dough is wet enough that it usually comes together without help.

    A note on hand size: The recipe calls for wrapping the rope around your palm, but I like a smaller, tighter bagel, so I wrap it around my first three fingers, as shown. If you have a smaller hand, you could probably wrap it around all your fingers.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (5)

  7. Allow bagels to rise again for 10 minutes. At this point, your malt syrup–water should be boiling. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to carefully add bagels, one at a time, to the water. (Note: no more in the pot than 3 at a time.) Bagels should sink but then rise again after a few seconds. Simmer for 1 minute, flipping bagels at the 30-second mark.

    Tip: The original recipe calls for this second rising, but I often skip it. I've found it makes very little, if any, noticeable difference.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (6)

  8. Remove bagels from water with skimmer or slotted spoon to a clean kitchen towel. Pat dry.

    If making plain bagels, proceed to Step 10.

  9. For bagel toppings: Place bagels on wire cooling rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Brush bagel tops with egg-water mixture. Shake on desired toppings. Sesame seed, poppy seed, kosher salt, minced onion, and minced garlic are classic (at least in NYC).

    The baking sheet will collect excess dry toppings (such as sesame or poppy seeds). Simply pour them back into their containers for reuse.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (7)

  10. Place bagels on prepared baking sheet. Bake until light brown and shiny, 15 to 20 minutes. Flip, and bake until reverse side is golden-brown and shiny, about 10 minutes more.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (8)

Special equipment

Large baking sheet, oiled with shortening or nonstick cooking spray and then dusted with cornmeal (or just use a nonstick baking sheet or parchment)

This Recipe Appears In

  • How to Make Bagels at Home
Nutrition Facts (per serving)
213Calories
1g Fat
43g Carbs
7g Protein

×

Nutrition Facts
Servings: 10
Amount per serving
Calories213
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 1g1%
Saturated Fat 0g1%
Cholesterol 0mg0%
Sodium 638mg28%
Total Carbohydrate 43g16%
Dietary Fiber 1g5%
Total Sugars 5g
Protein 7g
Vitamin C 0mg0%
Calcium 12mg1%
Iron 1mg3%
Potassium 70mg1%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

FAQs

Why are my homemade bagels tough? ›

Moreira: Usually if you get dense bagels, it's because they were underproofed. But it could also be that your yeast is bad. When you're at home using dry yeast—especially if you don't use it that often—you should always bloom the yeast in a little bit of sugar and water to make sure it's active.

How do you make homemade bagels less chewy? ›

Swapping in ½ cup of whole-wheat flour for ½ cup of the bread flour will make the bagels slightly less chewy but will also give them a boost of flavor.

What makes a good bagel? ›

A good bagel should have a thin, shiny, crackly crust spotted with the kind of microblisters that you can only get from proper boiling followed by a high-temperature bake. It's these little bubbles that add both surface area and crunch.

What is the best flour for bagels? ›

Bread flour – Because of its high protein content, bread flour makes these homemade bagels delightfully chewy. This recipe also works with all-purpose flour, they're just a bit less chewy than bagels made with bread flour.

How do you keep bagels from hardening? ›

If the bagels are fresh from the bakery, make sure they cool completely before you put them in the plastic bag. It's also important to squeeze any excess air out of the bag before sealing it, otherwise the bagels might harden. Stored this way, whole bagels should stay fresh for about six days.

Why is my bagel so chewy? ›

What Makes a Bagel Chewy? Bread flour is the essential ingredient to creating that distinct chewy bite we all crave in a bagel. Its high protein content creates a stiff dough that holds its shape while baking and develops more gluten for more chew.

What makes a bagel soft? ›

All-purpose flour has a lower percentage of protein which means that it will produce a much softer texture. You need the higher protein content from the bread flour which creates more gluten and a more elastic dough. This equals the ideal chewy bagel.

What does baking soda do to bagels? ›

Baking soda makes the water more alkaline, giving the bagels a pretzel-like quality that contributes to their chewiness. Just one teaspoon helps the bagels develop a shiny, dark-brown exterior as they bake.

What is the best water for bagels? ›

The New York Water and Local Ingredients

NYC bagel purists will claim the main difference between a New York bagel vs. a regular bagel is the water you boil them in. Much like a specific vineyard terroir is used to make a wine, certain minerals in New York City tap water are attributed to creating the best bagels.

What city is famous for bagels? ›

New York style bagels are made with malt syrup and New York City water (which locals will tell you makes all the difference), and their fermentation is drawn out in cold temperatures to deepen the flavor. They're poached in salted water and then baked.

Is bagel dough the same as bread dough? ›

Bagels and bread use different types of dough, although they share some basic ingredients. The dough used for bagels typically contains higher levels of certain ingredients, resulting in a distinct texture and flavor.

Why do you put bagels in water before baking? ›

Bagels, like pretzels, are boiled first to create a crunchy exterior. Bagels are boiled in water usually 30 to 60 seconds before hitting the oven. This boiling causes the starch on the exterior of the bread to gel and create a barrier from the interior dough.

How do you make bagels fluffy again? ›

The microwave is a quick solution for many kitchen tasks. To help soften a hard bagel, simply wrap it in a moist paper towel and microwave it for 15 seconds. You can also set the bagel on a microwave-safe plate, then surround it with a few water drops or lightly mist it and put it in the microwave for 30 seconds.

What do you put on bagels before baking? ›

Before baking, let's top the bagels. Brush with a little egg white, then coat in everything bagel seasoning. This is a blend of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, dried minced onion, dried garlic flakes, and coarse salt. Feel free to use more of one seasoning than another, or leave one out if you don't like it.

Can you overmix bagel dough? ›

Dense and Heavy

Despite getting some nice blistering, overworked doughs don't retain gas well and resist expansion, leading to a dense ring with a tight crumb.

Are bagels supposed to be tough? ›

A proper bagel should be chewy enough that it takes a bit of jaw muscle to bite into it. Good bagels are denser than most bread, but not hard. Bagels are fully proofed before being boiled, then baked.

References

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